5 of the best dive watches that aren’t named ‘Submariner’

There is probably no watch more recognized, more ubiquitous, more loved, and more hated than the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953, it was one of the first dive watches produced for commercial sale. The design was one of the first to place an external rotating bezel onto a watch, allowing divers to time the duration of their dives. Over the last 70 years, this design has become the archetype for almost every other dive watch. While there are often imitators, there’s only one Rolex Submariner.

Rolex revamped the entire Submariner line in 2020, releasing the new no-date Submariner reference 124060 and the Submariner Date, complete with a variety of colorful bezel options. The new no-date Submariner runs $8,100, while the Submariner Date will set you back $9,550. With the new release, the Submariner is the must-have watch of 2020; but, there are also a ton of great alternative dive watches from brands that won’t make you sit on a waitlist for a few months first. Let’s take a look at five of the best alternatives to the Rolex Submariner.

In a similar article, I recommended five mechanical dive watches under $5,000. But hey, why limit yourself financially? That said, all of the recommended Submariner alternatives will run you less than a Submariner at MSRP. Honestly, I’d have a hard time recommending spending more than the $8,100 a no-date Sub runs on a modern dive watch that’s intended to be worn every day.

Tudor Pelagos

If the Rolex Submariner isn’t your jam for one reason or another, Hans Wilsdorf’s other brand might be for you. While the Rolex Submariner feels luxurious yet traditional, the Tudor Pelagos is a pure, cutting edge tool watch.

The Pelagos is Tudor showing off. It’s Tudor doing everything possible to make the best dive watch possible, just because it can. What makes it even cooler is that it feels like it’s doing this to thumb its nose at big brother Rolex. Durable yet light titanium and steel case? Yep. 500m of water resistance? Why not. And, it’s still got all the other goodies you’d expect from a flagship-level dive watch: in-house manufacture caliber MT5612 COSC movement with 70 hours of power reserve; ceramic bezel insert; a unique (and patented) bracelet extension system.

Tudor offers the Pelagos in three flavors: a black dial and bezel, blue dial and bezel, and a wild “LHD” (left-hand drive) version that puts the winding crown on the other side of the case and is distinguishable by its custard-colored patina.

Sure, the Tudor Black Bay line (both the standard 41mm version and the Black Bay 58) are great options, but if you want a badass dive watch — one that the Submariner itself probably looks at and says “I wish I could be that,” look no further than the Pelagos.

The Pelagos measures 42mm in diameter, and at 14mm thick and a nearly 50mm lug width, it’s not a small watch by any means. But you wanted a robust dive watch, right?

Price: $4,575 (Reference M25600TB-0001)

Omega Seamaster 300M

Like the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster 300M is a bonafide flagship in Omega’s lineup. It’s almost unfair to describe it as an “alternative” to the Rolex Submariner, since it’s a certifiable icon in its own right.

The Seamaster 300 history dates back to 1957, a robust addition to the brand’s collection designed specifically for divers. The Seamaster 300M was introduced in 1993, but has quickly achieved iconic status in the years since its release. This is thanks in large part to its association with James Bond. In 1995, Pierce Brosnan took over the role of Bond, strapping a quartz Seamaster 300M to his wrist in GoldenEye. In his later films, Brosnan wore a Seamaster 300M Chronometer, with the helium release valve often transformed into all sorts of improbable gadgets.

While the vintage Rolex Submariner is most associated with Sean Connery’s James Bond, the modern James Bond has been Omega’s man. Every new Bond film seems to come with a limited edition Seamaster (for example, the 2020 limited edition to celebrate Bond’s 50th anniversary).

The modern version of the Seamaster 300M is a 42mm with a ceramic rotating bezel and Omega’s signature Co-Axial movement, a Chronometer caliber 8800. In other words, a top-of-the-line watch worth of 007’s, and your, wrist. At $5,200, it’s a hell of a lot of watch.

Price: $5,200

Seiko SPB143

This year, Seiko introduced the SPB143 to its line of Prospex dive watches. It’s inspired by the Seiko 62MAS, Seiko’s first dive watch. There are also a few other new references, but the SPB143 is the classic, a stainless steel dive watch with a grey/black dial and bracelet included. It measures 40.5mm in diameter, 13mm in thickness, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug.

The watch comes with Seiko’s 6R35 caliber, Seiko’s top-line movement in the 6R caliber series. It features a 70-hour power reserve, beats at 3 Hz, and much more accurate than the calibers you might be used to in an entry-level Seiko diver.

For those who just want a no-nonsense dive watch for around a thousand bucks that can be worn and enjoyed for years to come, the new SPB143 is it. The original Seiko 62MAS was Japan’s response to the Swiss dive watch, and the form holds up remarkably well in modern times, with slight technical and aesthetic updates to deliver all the performance you’d otherwise expect.

Price: $1,200

Baltic Aquascaphe

“Microbrands”, as they’re called, really exceed in offering affordable, sporty alternatives to watches like the Rolex Submariner. One such microbrand is French brand Baltic. The Baltic Aquascaphe is the brand’s dive watch offering, a 39mm stainless steel watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel. It’s offered in a few different dial options: a “blue gilt”, black, and “black cream” — the latter is my favorite for its vintage-inspired aesthetic (think Tudor Black Bay 58).

The Aquascaphe is equipped with an automatic Miyota movement, which allows Baltic to keep the price exceedingly reasonable. Baltic is a modern microbrand that’s ben able to take inspiration from various pieces of horological history but putting a modern spin on this influence. The result is a watch that feels thoroughly modern, yet rooted in heritage.

For other microbrand options, check out Halios, Astor & Banks, and Unimatic.

Price €580 (“black cream”)

Rolex Submariner reference 14060 (or 16610)

I know, a Rolex Submariner as an alternative to the Rolex Submariner? But hear me out. If you’re searching for alternatives to the Submariner, I’m hear to tell you it’s not that hard to find a modern, wearable Submariner for a decent price if you’re willing to crack open Rolex’s back catalog. And if it’s a Submariner wants, it’s a Submariner you can get.

The reference 14060 is the version of the no-date Submariner, produced by Rolex throughout the 1990s. If you want something that truly straddles vintage and modern, this is it. There are vintage-inspired touches on this watch: the 14060 features an aluminum bezel, more slender case profile and lug holes.

But the updates to the 14060 are what define it: sapphire crystal, increased water resistance, in addition to the glossy dial and white gold surrounds. If you want a Rolex that’s pretty easy to find on the secondary market, you don’t have to worry about beating around a bit, and hues a bit more modern in aesthetic, just pick up a reference 14060 already.

As an added bonus, the reference 14060 might even be a bit collectible. As vintage Rolex models continue to get snatched up and rise in price, later 5-digit transitional models like the 14060 present interesting alternatives for savvy collectors just starting out.

If this has piqued your interest and you’re interested in learning more about picking up your first vintage Rolex Submariner, check out our guide, What to know before buying your first vintage Submariner.

Price: $8,000-$9,000 (est.)

Bonus pick: Steinhart Ocean 39

No shame here. Steinhart has built its entire business on creating faithful “homages” to various Rolex models. Just got for it. Sure, I use “homage” with scare quotes fully intended, but I don’t begrudge Steinhart one bit. The brand has long made outstanding watches at downright affordable prices. The Ocean 39 features a black ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, stainless steel build and bracelet. It’s equipped with an ETA 2824 caliber, a respectable movement that’s found in dozens of watches with prices much higher than the Ocean 39.

Sure, Steinhart’s watches are the most blatant “alternatives” to the Rolex Submariner, but if you can learn to enjoy a Steinhart without shame, that’s when you know you’re really have fun with this hobby.

Price: €430