I recently wrote about “transitional” or “neo-vintage” Rolex as a segment of the pre-owned watch market primed to be “the next big thing.” They’re perfect for a guy like me: Not as fragile as a full-on vintage model, but also not as big and hey-look-at-me-I’m-wearing-a-Rolex as the brand’s modern collection.

Take, for example, the best transitional Rolex — in my opinion, of course — the Explorer reference 14270. The follow-on to the long-running Explorer reference 1016, the reference 14270 was just the update the Explorer line needed after remaining unchanged for nearly three decades. I’ve dug more in-depth on the entire history of the Rolex Explorer before, but you don’t need to buy into the whole summiting Mount Everest history to get why the reference 14270 is a nearly perfect watch.

The Rolex Explorer is the perfect everyday watch, and I’m of the opinion that the reference 14270 is the ultimate embodiment of that ethos. With some more upgraded and luxurious details than the reference 1016, but not quite the total in-your-face modern luxury that modern Rolex stands for, the reference 14270 strikes the ultimate balance between functionality and opulence.

If you want to get super technical and just learn about watches, Walt Odet’s 2002 review of the Explorer 1 reference 14270 is simply iconic. It tells you how you should feel about this watch. But his review and criticisms aside, I don’t care. Every time I handle an Explorer reference 14270, I’m reminded why I love it, and that you can get a modern classic by spending less than $5,000.

Fit and finish

The new reference 14270 brought an updated glossy black dial and added white gold surrounds to the applied lume indices. However, the reference 14270 did (thank god) stay true to the original Explorer’s 36mm diameter. The lug-to-lug measures just 43.5mm and the thickness sits at 11mm, making for a compact case, but one that doesn’t disappear on the wrist. (If this sounds too small, just stop reading and go buy the current Explorer reference 214270 I guess.) The smooth bezel and lack of crown guards makes for a slightly more elegant case than some of its relative tool watches in the Rolex lineup. Rolex also swapped out the acrylic crystal for a modern, scratch resistant sapphire crystal. With water resistance of 330 feet, it’s still a watch you can feel comfortable swimming with, even at 25 years old.

You’ll find some evolution in the Reference 14270’s life span: moving away from drilled lugs, a change from tritium to Luminova, and a few other minor variations. But these are mostly nibbling at the edges.

Dial

The enameled black dial is perhaps the Explorer’s most iconic feature. The 3-6-9 Arabic numerals are large, legible, and pure. There’s a reason dial layouts like this are referred to as “Explorer dials”: The Rolex Explorer did it best, and to this day, still does.

During the Explorer reference 14270’s early years, the indices were filled with tritium lume. However, in the late 1990s, Rolex transitioned over to Luminova, which was technically superior to tritium (not being radioactive and all). However, collectors tend to seek out the early tritium dials because the material can develop a creamy patina over the years while Luminova does not. You can tell the difference by looking at the dial: if tritium was used, the dial will say “T Swiss - T < 25” below the 6 o’clock marker.

Another collector favorite in the reference 14270 world is the Explorer Blackout. Produced for a short amount of time in the early 1990s, the Rolex Explorer Blackout had black Arabic numerals instead of white. If you’re searching for one (good luck), look for a serial number in the E (or perhaps early X) range.

Movement

Of course, Rolex had to upgrade the movement when it introduced the reference 14270, so it dropped in the in-house automatic caliber 3000. The Explorer’s movement is COSC certified — though if you pick one up nowadays, don’t necessarily expect those specs. It beats at a high 28,800bph, and with a 42-hour power reserve, will do just fine in your watch box overnight. It’s a robust movement that’s characterized by its simplicity and oversized design. You’ll also find the caliber 3000 is used by the no-Date Submariner and Air-King form the era.

Why I love it

Okay, those are the specs that any review will tell you, but this Explorer is all about how it feels. Upon picking it up and putting it on, you immediately know you’re wearing a Rolex. It’s got the heft you’d expect from a modern watch, without feeling burdensome. Sure, the bracelet’s not the best, but it’s better than a true vintage Rolex bracelet. And honestly, it drapes nicely on my wrist, giving the watch a natural feel and fit on the wrist.

Just as importantly, I didn’t feel like other people knew I was wearing a Rolex once I slipped on the Explorer. Sure, it’s there, but it’s not dominating your outfit or look. If someone in the room is a watch guy, they may give you a subtle wink and a “nice watch,” but you’re not going to get the sarcastically shouted “nice watch!” from your non-watch friend who sees you trying to flex and isn’t going to have one bit of it.

Whether you’re just getting into watches and Rolex, or you’re deeper than a Deep Sea Special, the Rolex Explorer 14270 has something for you.