Vintage and modern dive watches for the small-wristed among us
In watches, looking just a level deeper is when all the fun happens. While larger, flagship dive watches from Rolex, Omega, and other brands receive all the attention and accolades, there is more fun — not to mention value — to be had digging deeper, searching out watches that are smaller, less expensive, and more wearable.
The quintessential dive watch is the Rolex Submariner, but with Rolex bumping up the diameter to 41mm in its newest release this year, it can appear too big on smaller wrists. So, this list will focus on dive watches under 40mm. Just as important when evaluating the watch is its lug-to-lug and how thick (height) it measures.
You might think of these as "dive watches for women”, but I don’t think that’s quite right. Let’s take Omega’s “women’s” collection as an example: the brand seems to think women’s watches means sizing down the case, swapping in a quartz movement, and throwing some diamonds on it. In reality, there are tons of exciting, non-blinged out options with diameters measuring 36 to 39mm.
To me (and to the ISO), a few things define a dive watch: water resistance to at least 100m (most in this list have more than 200m), strong lume on the hands and hour markers, and a rotating diver’s bezel.
While last year’s list of dive watches focused on modern watches, this year’s list mixes it up with vintage, neo-vintage, and modern watches. Most of the choices here measure 36 to 39mm. Since 38mm or so was relatively standard on vintage divers, it seemed a shame not to include a few options. And, while many collectors might focus on slightly larger vintage models like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster 300, there’s tons of value to be had if you’re willing to dig just a bit deeper.
Omega Seamaster 120
Omega Seamaster 120 ref. 166.027 | Credit: Christie’s
The original Omega Seamaster was released in 1948, with the iconic Seamaster 300 being introduced a decade later in 1957 by the launch of the reference CK2913. The Seamaster 300, a robust, 38.5mm dive watch with rotating external bezel and increased water resistance, became the spring board for the Seamaster, even to this day. But like the Rolex Submariner, it wears a bit large on smaller wrists. And while it’s fun to collect the icons, sometimes you just want a smaller, cheaper, robust watch you can wear every day without worry. Enter the Seamaster 120.
Omega introduced the Seamaster 120 in the 1960s, after the Seamaster 300 had established itself as a flagship model within Omega’s catalog. Measuring 36mm in diameter and 12mm in thickness, the Seamaster 120 delivers all the history of the Seamaster line, but in a smaller, more wearable package. The tonneau-shaped case wears slightly larger than the measurement leads on, but remains slim and manageable. The Seamaster 120 can be found in a variety of references (165.027, 166.027, 136.027), but all feature a matte black dial, rotating bezel, and powered by an automatic Omega caliber. Consider yourself lucky if you find one equipped with the original Omega bracelet: they’re increasingly difficult to find, but complete the tool watch vibe.
While the 36mm Seamaster 120 will only cost a few thousand bucks, be especially on the lookout for fakes. Perhaps because the model remains relatively obscure and few in number, it’s known to be a commonly counterfeited watch.
Similarly, the Omega Admiralty was introduced around the same time as the Seamaster 120 as a smaller, cheaper alternative to the Seamaster 300. It also measures 36mm in diameter, but unlike the Seamaster 120, is found in a variety of rich dial and bezel colorways. Depending on the particular reference, the Admiralty can be found with either a manual or automatic caliber. More circular in shape and with short lugs, the Admiralty wears smaller than the Seamaster 120.
Tudor Submariner reference 75190 (mid-size)
The mid-size Tudor Submariner is also a smaller riff on a classic dive watch. Tudor began making its own Submariner in the 1950s, shortly after big brother Rolex first launched its line. But, the classic Tudor Submariner always measured 39-40mm. Not until the 1990s, with the release of the Submariner reference 75090 and 75190, did Tudor release a smaller, 36mm dive watch suitable for even the most modest of wrists. Because I’m a bit shallow, I prefer the ref. 75190 since it features a Rolex-signed crown (a final relic from the days when Tudor used Rolex parts whole cloth to create cheaper alternatives with ETA movements), but the references are largely similar in form and function.
Except for the shrunk-down size, the mid-size Tudor Submariner looks similar to its full-size contemporary: Mercedes hands, external rotating bezel, wedge and dot indices, and found on an Oyster-style or Jubilee-style bracelet. Black dial or blue dial variants are most commonly found, though some more interesting, experimental dial and bezel combinations will also be seen.
Perhaps because the brand’s modern Black Bay 58 (see below) has turned collectors on to Tudor’s smaller dive watch offerings, the mid-size Submariners from the 1990s have seen a real surge in popularity lately. The blue colorway seems to be particularly popular, and it’s easy to see why. Not only does it look great on pretty much any wrist, it might just be the least expensive way to cop a blue-faced sports watch from the Tudor-Rolex family. Even while prices have increased, a mid-size Tudor Submariner can still be had for less than $5,000.
Enicar Sherpa Super Divette
Enicar Sherpa Super Divette | Credit: Timeline.Watch
Unlike the other small dive watches on this list, the Enicar Sherpa Super Divette is recognizable due to its internal rotating bezel. This is thanks to its E.P.S.A. “Super Compressor” case, a case featuring a technological advancement that supposedly made the watch even more water resistant by implementing a ring that applied pressure to the case back when its wearer went diving. Other brands used this technology during the 1960s (Hamilton, Longines, Universal Geneve, and many others), but Enicar has become one of the most widely associated with the Super Compressor cases. What’s better, unlike those other brands, Enicar committed to using both small (36mm) and large (40mm) cases in its lineup, meaning there’s a size for everyone. Dive watches using Super Compressor cases are often referred to as “dress divers” for the more discrete, sleek look that an internal bezel under the crystal provides compared to a typical external bezel.
Enicar watches are defined by their bold, sporty aesthetic with ample lume, color and funk, and the Divette is know exception. While it’s a bit more subdued than some of the more out-there designs from the brand that’s got Saturn as its logo, it’s still different from many of the vintage divers from the same era.
If you’re looking for something with just a bit more complication and funk, take a look at the Enciar Jet. It uses the same Super Compressor case, but it’s got a GMT complication and the internal bezel features a rotatable 24-hour ring.
For more on Enicar, check out our article “So You’re Curious about Enicar, Huh?”
Rolex Yacht-Master 37
It’s hard to call this one a true dive watch, but technically, the specs are there. I’d always written off the Yacht-Master as a bit ridiculous, but then I slipped on the Yacht-Master 37 with a steel-platinum (Rolesium, as Rolex calls it) case and was blown away. Start with the specs: with 100m of water resistance, the Yacht-Master technically has enough water resistance to be considered a diver. The sunburst dark rhodium dial is really unlikely anything else in Rolex’s catalog. Its coolness is accentuated by the platinum, bi-directional rotating bezel, which features raised and polished numerals that stand out against the matte finish of the bezel. The light blue seconds hand and Yacht-Master text (Rolex tends to use blue for platinum watches) provide the perfect complement to the watch’s steely grey look. There’s something about the aesthetic of the Rolesium Yacht-Master that’s just ice cold: If the White Walkers were wearing Rolexes, it feels like the Yacht-Master would be the choice.
With most of Rolex’s sports watches now sized larger (Explorer: 39mm; Submariner: 41mm; Explorer II: 42mm), the Yacht-Master presents the only real sports watch option under 38mm. If you’re looking for something a bit more sporty and fun than an Oyster-Perpetual 36, the Yacht-Master 37 is worth a look. Priced at $11,250, it’s not a bad way to get a steel (or, more accurately, platinum-steel) Rolex at retail.
For more, visit Rolex.
Vintage Oris Diver (Super, Star)
Vintage Oris Star | Credit: Shuck the Oyster
While last year’s list of modern divers for small wrists featured the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, this time let’s take a look at the vintage Oris dive watches that inspired the modern Sixty-Five. Throughout the 1960s, you’ll find a variety of small, slim Oris dive watches and skin divers, with a variety of names on the dial.
A couple commonly found models are the Oris Star and Oris Super, both watches that measure about 36mm and feature a slim rotating bezel. They’re classic, no-nonsense divers with large lume plots, geometric date window, and sleek, sporty aesthetic. One note when searching for these: many examples are chromed nickel — not stainless steel — a material that won’t age as well, so hang on and look for a steel version that you can wear without worry (nickel will tarnish with wear, and once it’s gone there’s no repairing it). If you’re a fan of the modern Oris Divers Sixty-Five but want a vintage watch with a bit more soul, take some time to search for vintage Oris dive watches from the 1960s.
Vintage Skin Divers
Wittnauer Skin Diver | Credit: Hodinkee Shop
Oris isn’t the only brand that made sexy skin divers throughout the middle of the century. Search “skin diver” on your favorite (or least favorite) watch marketplace and you’ll find dozens of offerings from little-known historic brands like Wittnauer, Elgin, Lip, and others, to more known labels like Longines and Seiko. This is where you’ve got to embrace the mystery and buy what you like. Don’t pay as much attention to the name on the dial as to the condition of the watch and the aesthetic you’re drawn to. There’s a ton of fun to be had under $1,000, and this is the time to do it.
Skin divers were made for individuals diving without a dive suit, so they tend to be smaller, slimmer, and less water resistant than their more robust dive watch counterparts. A couple of my favorite brands that made skin divers during the mid-20th century are Elgin and Wittnauer, perhaps due to their American heritage. While the big boys like Rolex, Omega and Blancpain were developing technically sophisticated divers designed to withstand anything, dozens of smaller brands focused on manufacturing these smaller skin divers. Look around enough and you’ll see many brands used similar case shapes and sizes (often from the same manufacturer) — highlighted by a slim, arching case with squared downturned lugs, typically measuring around 38mm in diameter. Often, these skin divers are the same but for the name on the dial and perhaps a more (or less) colorful bezel.
Tudor Black Bay 58
Now in black or blue! I wrote an in-depth review of the original Black Bay 58 last year, so I won’t belabor the point: it’s a damn good watch. It hits all the right notes: a heritage watch that’s an ode to the Tudor Submariners of old without trying too hard; modern styling without the “luxury” trappings that too often define Rolex’s new releases. Respectful of the past while still proudly looking towards the future. Most importantly, it’s just a fun watch. At 39mm and with a retail price around $3,500, it’s hard not to recommend this watch to anyone, for any occasion.
Black Bay 58 Specs:
39mm x 11.9mm stainless steel case and bracelet
200m water resistance
Domed sapphire crystal
In-house MT5402 chronometer-certified calibre with 70-hour power reserve
MSRP: $3,575 (on bracelet)
Read my full review here. In the review I actually compare it to the Tudor Black Bay 36 which is a great dive watch (150m water resistance) for those who don’t want a rotating bezel.