A new Santos-Dumont, and re-introductions of the Tank Asymétrique and Pasha make for another big year
Cartier is one of the few brands I look forward to hearing from each year. Since recommitting to watchmaking, the maison consistently churns out exciting new releases each year, all rooted in the brand’s history as a maker of fine watches, but with modern flourishes to ensure they’re not boring re-releases.
For this week’s newsletter, we’re going to be diving deep on the history of one of the models that received an update this year (hint: we already did one of them), so we wanted to briefly highlight the new releases that might be better understood by looking at the model’s history.
This year, Cartier used its dedicated website, Cartier Watchmaking Encounters, to announce its new releases. According to the brand, the unifying theme is “Unexpected Encounters.” This has always been a part of the brand’s modus operandi, combining shapes and ideas that are new and unexpected. There’s no doubt, Cartier has a command of geometry in a way no other watch or jewelry brand does, and it consistently shows in their new releases.
Let’s focus on the biggest releases from Cartier’s 2020 collection: The re-introduction of the Pasha de Cartier and Tank Asymétrique, and additions to the Santos-Dumont line.
I’ll be clear: I haven’t seen or handled any of these watches (nor have many others blogging about them); that said, I’ve been excited to see more than a handful of releases from Cartier in the metal over the last few years, and I’ve yet to be disappointed when I finally do.
Pasha de Cartier
The Pasha de Cartier is a Gerald Genta design that doesn’t receive quite the love of some of his other designs. Still, it’s a modern icon in its own right.
It’s particularly recognizable for its square-inside a-circle design (there’s Cartier and its mastery of shapes) and chained crown.
The new model is available in two sizes: 35mm or 41mm, ranging from $5,700 for a small stainless steel mode, up to $16,000 for a 41mm version in yellow gold. There will also be a couple special pieces: a skeletonized 41mm version and a 35mm white gold version with 14.47 carats of diamonds all over.
Earlier this year, I highlighted the Cartier Pasha Golf as a particularly unnecessary — but brilliant — complicated watch to track the scores of your entire foursome.
Santos-Dumont XL
I loved the re-introduction of the Santos-Dumont last year. Sure, it was quartz, but we knew a mechanical version had to be coming soon. This year, Cartier released the Santos-Dumont XL, powered by the 430 MC caliber, a super thin manual wind movement with a 36-hour power reserve. The new XL line will be offered in steel, two-tone, and pink gold, ranging from about $5,000 to $15,000.
I haven’t seen the new Santos-Dumont XL yet, but it seems Jake Gyllenhal has.
The new Santos-Dumont XL measures 46.6mm x 33.9mm x 7.4mm thick. Compare this to the larger of the two quartz models introduced last year, which was 43.5mm x 31.4mm x 7.3mm. I’m a small-watch guy, and even I preferred last year’s larger Santos-Dumont to the smaller one, so I’m excited to see if this new manually wound XL might work even on my slender wrists.
Tank Asymétrique
Finally, Cartier brought back the Tank Asymétrique as a part of its Privé line.
First of all, I love that they’re using the Privé line to re-introduce a classic like the Asymétrique. Originally running from 1998 to 2008, it was a way for Cartier to remind every that yes, Cartier does make great fucking watches, thank you very much.
The Asymétrique was first introduced in 1936; supposedly, it was design to make telling time a bit easier from your wristwatch. Cartier has re-introduced it a few times since and in a number of different variations, so it’s exciting to see it again committing to such a classic model.