There are those who enjoy learning about watches, and then there are those who obsess over learning everything they can about the details and components of a watch. Charlie Dunne, the man behind the popular books_on_time Instagram account, is certainly the latter.
Charlie brings an intellectual, academic approach to his appreciation of horology and watches. He doesn’t consider himself a “watch collector”, but that’s only because he’s more interested in learning about all kinds of watches than in possessing them.
I had the chance to catch up with Charlie to discuss some of his favorite horology books, Vulcain Crickets and jump hour watches, and visiting Patek Philippe boutiques just to read. He’s also one of the most humble people I’ve met, just as eager to learn from others as he is willing to share his wealth of horological knowledge.
Q: Who is Charlie, and what got you into watches?
I’m someone who just really enjoys learning about watches. I try to look at the whole landscape of the watch community and people who are interested in watches and have an open mind as to what others have to offer and what I can learn, as well as trying to share stuff that I find interesting. My interest is in trying to find people to talk to about watches. Every single person I talk to I try to learn something from; Every single person has the ability to share something new with you. I’m just as excited to learn from others and ask them questions as I am eager to share stuff. I don’t consider myself a “watch collector” or expert by any means, I just like to learn.
Q: What was your motivation for starting the Books on Time Instagram account, and what is your goal with the page?
When I was in my teenage years, I remember being interested in watches, but more the mainstream watches — Breitling, Rolex — that anyone might recognize.
Then, I started with some NAWCC [National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors] books that I got on eBay. They were price guides that were published in the 80s and 90s and I would just dig through these books and try to learn. All the photos were in black and white, so you didn’t even get a grasp for what they looked like. My introduction to watches was primarily through books and not the internet.
I still have books that I’ve had for 10 years. I’m drawn to books because, rather than going out and searching for an answer on Google, where it’s so accessible and easy, books allow you to stumble upon information and almost naturally find your way to learning. For me, it’s very therapeutic to sit at a coffee shop for a few hours and get lost in a book that I’ve stumbled through numerous times but I might find something interesting that I haven’t found before.
“It’s more experiential. It’s almost more difficult to find your interests through books … but it’s just fun.”
It’s more experiential. It’s almost more difficult to find your interests through books. Sometimes it’s painstaking, and you find yourself trying to remember which auction catalog or book you saw a certain watch in, but I like it. It’s difficult, but it’s just fun. More fun than staring at a computer screen.
Q: Are there other books that started your interest in watches and watch literature?
About four years ago, I was watching a Hodinkee Friday Live where Jack Forster mentioned a couple books: one was Why Switzerland, and the other was A Revolution in Time by David Landes. I’ve read this book a few times, and still haven’t gotten the full picture, because you can get lost in this book. It talks about how time was measured throughout history, from earlier clepsydras to railroad grade pocket watches and the expansion of people being able to be mobile and travel across countries. To me, that’s a special book that I would encourage everyone to read. It won’t give you what you want in terms of a wristwatch enthusiast, but it will open your eyes to the bigger picture of what these watches were in the 17th and 18th century, but it’s a difficult read.
To me, everything [Hodinkee editor-in-chief] Jack Forster does is super cool. There are hilarious memes of Jack explaining a hairspring and the book is mammoth sized, and then it says “Part I”. But when I read his stuff I really find it interesting. He’s an eclectic guy with different tastes.
Q: Is it difficult to be intellectual in an industry that can be focused on aesthetics and the surface level?
For me, I am drawn to aesthetics and what I like to wear. I like watches that have a focus on design. I haven’t yet gone down the Rolex avenue, but for me I find the Rolex jump hour princes so much cooler than any GMT or any Submariner. People like what they like, and I try to appreciate what other people like, because what I was drawn to ten years ago about watches is completely different from what I’m drawn to today.
I’m certainly someone who, when they see a watch for the first time, thinks, “Okay, that’s cool, but what is it, why is it so special?” Sometimes I’ll have to see something multiple times. For instance, the Octo Finissimo: I didn’t see the appeal whatsoever, until Wei Koh boasted about it every single day. It felt like it was paid promotion the way he was championing it, and then after about three months I finally started looking at it and thinking ‘okay, that really is architecturally cool.’ It’s got these interesting stepped lugs, they’ve played around with a lot of materials, and mechanically, these things are very, very thin and house beautiful movements. And when you see one in person you’ll be quite shocked.
I don’t agree with every single person’s taste in watches, but I try to reserve my opinion on things that I haven’t seen, and try to respect other peoples’ interest. I wouldn’t be able to enjoy a lot of the watches I’m fascinated by and enjoy learning about if it wasn’t for other people who caught on to how cool they were first.
Charlie’s Baume and Mercier
Q: Can you talk about watches you enjoy learning about: brands, specific watches — what are you particularly fascinated by nowadays?
I’m really interested in jump hour watches. I think Audemars Piguet was making some of the most interesting watches from the 1920s. I don’t think there’s a cooler watch right now than a jump hour watch from the 1920s. That whole linear expression of time is so different. We’re accustomed to analog or looking at our phones, but when you see something beautifully interpreted to tell time, whether it’s a retrograde or a jump hour — you had to have been of such a different type of mind to come up with an expression of time like that.
I find myself reading about Cartier a lot. A lot of people are drawn to Cartier aesthetically, and I’m definitely on board with that, but over the last 16 years they’ve really focused on haute horology movements and developing their own calibers. Some of these watches are so fantastic and romantic, and they play so well on the past. You can’t deny they have just as interesting of a modern line; they have such a cool history but it doesn’t end at a certain time.
There are so many watches and so many books that you can get an appreciation of, but I don’t know if owning something like that is as fulfilling as learning about it.
I like nice watches, but I could be happy having a really great book on any watch if it’s extensive enough. That might be as cool as owning a really cool mint watch. Because at that point it’s a possession, but if you don’t enjoy all the extra details about a watch, it’s just surface level.
Q: Can you talk a bit about your literature collection: what type of books do you like to read, and for anyone looking to read more in-depth content about watches, are there any books or specific types of books you might recommend?
I might get a book on anything and I can find enjoyment out of it. Most people, when they get a book, it probably has to do with their interest in a brand. If you’re a Patek enthusiast at any level, books like those from Alan Banbery, John Reardon or Nicholas Foulkes are phenomenal. I don’t have the Foulkes one in my library, but I’ve gone into numerous Patek boutiques and asked if I can sit down for an hour and they’ve all been pretty kind in letting me do that. I just sit there with the book and they probably think I’m insane.
When you’re looking for a good book, it starts with what type of watch you’re interested in. If you’re interested in chronographs, the Sala Universal Watch Geneve book is up there. If you’re interested in dive watch there’s certainly great books about Rolex, for example James Dowling’s the Unauthorized History of Rolex or the new Enicar book, Time for a Change.
I don’t know if I can recommend how to go about finding a book without knowing the person’s interests in some way. At the same time, there are some books that every single person could enjoy. You can appreciate different things about books — there’s a balance to be struck between content-heavy and photography-focused books, and I enjoy all of them.
Q: How do you think about in-depth articles that are posted online — for example, Wei Koh’s recent article on the Patek Philippe reference 1463 — and consuming those, as compared to print books?
Wei Koh is one of my favorite people to read — not just on watches, but about anything. He’s probably one of the most poetic writers about watches. It’s important that people put effort into writing these expanded, in-depth articles online because not everyone is going to spend $100 on a book. Sometimes I have to say ‘don’t spend money on a book,’ for the sake of my budgeting, but I really do love to support people who are putting horological literature out there.
Publications online are just as important because they’re accessible to anybody. That accessibility is something that’s important, because when you look at books, it’s a contribution that takes a lot of effort. But when somebody writes an article online and puts their heart into it, I very much appreciate people who put that effort into content that anyone can access. I find myself just as eager to read those who are independently creating content because they’re passionate about it. You can tell when somebody’s putting something together that’s a passion project and I respect that. Even writing an Instagram caption isn’t easy — for me, I try to recognize what people are putting into their contributions in the watch community at all levels. I’m even getting into watch apps — I love the watch apps.
Q: Do you have any idea how large your collection of books is?
I’ve given away a lot of books, so it’s probably not that impressive! I’m lucky to have some really great books that I enjoy, and if I don’t enjoy one, I try to give it away to someone who’s a friend. There’s a kid in my neighborhood who likes watches, so every time I’m done with a magazine, I give it to him.
Charlie’s Vulcain Cricket
Q: I know you said you don’t think of yourself as a collector, but what’s on your wrist, and on a personal level what are you interested in?
I just got a Vulcain Cricket from Eric Wind. I’ve always liked alarm watches. People in the office hate them — it’s not sonically pleasing. Alarm watches are great, and this is my first Vulcain Cricket. It’s got a sector dial, and I think it’s super interesting. I love wearing it and it’s very new to me.
“I like to enjoy watches that are not supposed to tell you something about your self. I know who I am, and a watch wouldn’t make any difference in how I see myself or others.”
I’m also into Baume and Mercier. That was my first watch, and I’d be interested to see if one day there’s a cult-like following of Baume and Mercier. I don’t think that’s something people expect, but they also didn’t expect Heuers to be the center of the collecting community; they were looked at as an average watch. I like to enjoy watches that are not necessarily supposed to tell you something about your self. I know who I am, and a watch wouldn’t make any difference in how I see myself or other people. Some of the most intelligent people I’ve met wear Swatches.
I enjoy looking for watches that are not the most Instagram-worthy — there’s something really fun in discovering those watches.
Q: Any last words?
If any wants to find a book or tips on where to find a book, or wants to share a book with me, please reach out!