Nowadays, much of the complaining in the watch industry points to Instagram feeds that feature the same few watches that all look vaguely like a lug nut, consumers who pay ridiculous markups for those lug nuts, and stodgy brands content making lug nuts. In other words, the algorithm has won.
Last year when Seiko released its new Seiko 5 Sports line, I practically begged it to release a smaller version with no diving bezel. Meanwhile, SKX devotees were enraged that Seiko had taken their dive watches away, swapping them out for some poor excuse with a display case back, no screw-down crown, and a mere 100 meters of water resistance.
For us at home playing armchair corporate strategist, it all seemed to make sense: take away the budget SKX and force us to pony up for something from the more expensive Prospex line if we wanted a true diver.
I surmised that Seiko would continue to move its new Seiko 5 Sports line more towards sports watch and away from traditional dive watch (it’s in the very name, after all!) — more Rolex Explorer and less Submariner. As a guy with a professed love affair with both the Tudor Black Bay 36 and Rolex Explorer reference 14270, I’d be the first to welcome a true entry-level Seiko sports watch.
Naturally, I was thrilled when Seiko announced the newest additions to the Seiko 5 Sports line, sans rotating bezel. Let’s just get the specs out of the way, since they’re pretty much perfect:
Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 20mm lug width x 11.5mm thickness (44mm lug-to-lug)
Movement: Seiko 4R36 automatic | 24 jewels, 40-hour power reserve
Water resistance: 100m
Crystal: Hardlex
Crown: push/ pull
Display case back
Price: $275 on bracelet
The stainless steel case is solidly built, with a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces that add interest and depth. The prominent polished bezel steps down to lightly brushed lugs; flowing from the bottom right lug is a highly polished bottom crown guard, adding a certain elegance to a feature that’s otherwise pure tool watch.
Here, I’ll be featuring the Seiko SRPE55, the black dial version of the new Seiko 5 Sports with bracelet. But the new line also comes with grey, blue, and green dial variants; there’s also a NATO option instead of the bracelet.
The easiest way to find a model of the new Seiko 5 Sports SRPE line is to check Amazon: the most popular are the SRPE53 (blue dial on bracelet); SRPE55 (black dial on bracelet); and SRPE51 (grey dial on bracelet)
Think different
At first glance, the new Seiko 5 Sports is perfect: the dimensions are right in a goldilocks range; the dial is austere but exquisitely executed; the smooth bezel is attractive without being garish. Especially important: It pops on Instagram, with the look of a watch multiple times its $275 price tag. Sure, there are some details to quibble with: The oyster-style bracelet, with just two micro-adjustments, seems like an afterthought. But, these complaints largely miss the point: This is a watch for the masses, with features newcomers need and details enthusiasts will love.
For the watch industry, the most important watch in the entire game is the Seiko 5. It’s how so many discover watches and mutate to full-on watch-idiot-savant status. If you’re a newcomer to watches, wondering if this Seiko 5 should be your first mechanical or “real” watch, let me answer with fervor: Yes.
The new Seiko 5 Sport has something for everyone. For newcomers, there’s a display case back and a date window. For Seiko diehards, it’s clear the case is still inspired by the SKX’s voluptuous design, and the bold crown guards and dial layout remain familiar. A polished bezel, applied markers, and slimmed-down case make it a watch worthy of the DressKX moniker it’s been given.
While the most natural comparison is to the extinct SKX line, another comparison must also be made: To the Seiko SARB033 and 035. Like the SKX line, the SARB line was recently discontinued by Seiko. If the SKX lends the new DressKX its sporty DNA, the “dress” comes from the SARB’s lineage (SarbKX, anyone?). The minimalist approach, smooth bezel, even the “Automatic” script at 6 o’clock all evoke the SARB’s elegance.
Seiko 5 Sports SPRE55 next to a SARB033
A Seiko a day
Here’s where the earlier criticisms of the watch industry come in: When viewed like this, the Seiko 5 starts to seem like an amalgamation of Seiko’s greatest hits. Like someone fed data to an algorithm (or, just a large corporation), and out popped this watch, perfectly designed to be inoffensive and have broad appeal.
Some have already pointed out that the Seiko 5 Sports bears a striking resemblance to the Tudor Black Bay 36 and 41, watches that, in turn, are some funky fusion of a Submariner and Explorer designed to have the most appeal to the most people. What’s worse, the resemblance is probably unintentional. When Tudor and Seiko, two of the largest watch companies in the world, endeavor to make a watch they can sell a ton of, something like this might just be the natural result. If you squint, these all become derivative of the lug nuts that seemingly drive most of the demand and discussion about watches right now: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus and their many imitators.
Upsetting the Apple cart
But, while the steel sports watch craze has seemed like the story in watches over the last couple of years for us close enough to care, that is, of course, not the case. The larger story is the existential threat to the watch industry that comes in the form of a sleek glass squircle.
After being initially smitten by the new Seiko 5 Sport, I went through a brief period where I felt conflicted: How could I lust after a watch that seemed so simple, and worse yet, already had legions of lookalikes?
Eventually though, I came to my senses. Stop thinking, and just enjoy a damn good watch. More important than the fact that this watch might look like some other watches is the fact that it offers a viable alternative to the Apple Watch for the mechanical-watch curious. When people ask “what should I buy instead of an Apple Watch (or MVMT)?” I can finally give an answer I’m pretty sure they’ll immediately get.
As mentioned, an attractive Seiko 5 line with mass appeal but chops that enthusiasts can get behind is essential for the future of the watch industry. If this is Seiko’s answer — at half the price of a squircle, no less — perhaps there is a future for mechanical watches after all.
Seiko 5 SRPE55 with glowing LumiBrite lume.
The new Seiko 5 Sports reference numbers are: SRPE51, SRPE53, SRPE55, SRPE57, SRPE58, SRPE60, SRPE61, SRPE63, SRPE65, SRPE67, SRPE69. There are black, blue, grey, green and gilt dial options, with the choice of a NATO or bracelet.